(Convolvulus arvensis)
Grazing Methods: Sheep and cattle will eat the leaves and the stems of bindweed. Chickens and hogs eat the leaves, stems, and also exposed roots
and
crowns. (Breitenfeldt, Todd.)Crop Rotations: By rotating crops, such as rye in the fall, oats or buckwheat in the spring, and then rye again in the fall, bindweed does not do very well. Bindweed is not able to compete very well with these crops, and as they compete for food, water and sunlight the bindweed is not likely to do very well. Any time you rotate crops regularly, especially crops that shade this weed, it should be every effective. (Sullivan, Preston.)
Cover Crop: Bindweed does not do very well in shady conditions. So by planting corn, cereal grains, alfalfa and legumes, bindweed's growth will be reduced, and it may die out. Bindweed grows mostly on wasteland, so keeping crop planted and maintaining the health of your field will keep weed from growing. (Elmore, C. L.)
Tilling (Plowing): Bindweed is easy to control by tilling and plowing. The only effective way is three to four weeks after germination has occurred After that period perennial buds are already formed and it's not as effective. Well established plants are very hard to kill with tilling because they have such a deep and extensive root system. (Breitenfeldt, Todd and Sullivan, Preston.)
Hand Pulling: Hand pulling is not very effective in killing established bindweed because they have such an extensive root system. (Breitenfeldt, Todd.)
Controlled Burning: Due to field bindweed's extensive root system, burning does not usually kill it. (Breitenfeldt, Todd.)
Soil Solarization: Has not been effective in control of bindweed. Clear plastic that is UV-stablized is placed over moist soil in summer, during the hottest months. This increases the temperature of the soil, and may be lethal to seeds, seedling, soil-bourne pathogens, and some insects that are in the soil. (Peet, Dr. Mary.)
Hoeing: By hoeing every 10 days to 2 weeks during the growing season can help control bindweed very effectively. You must be very persistent and consistent to kill all the roots. (Sullivan, Preston.)
Links:
1) Bindweed Identification and Control
2) Cultural Control of field bindweed
3) Field bindweed Control Alternatives
4) Controlling bindweed
5) Managing noxious weeds
6) Field bindweed identification and management
7) Field bindweed
8) http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/weeds/msg0222404021598.html
9) Weed Alert: Field bindweed
10) http://organicgardening.about.com/od/weeds/p/Bindweed.htm
Works Cited:
1. Breitenfeldt, Todd A. Personal interview. 23 Jan. 2005. E-mail: tbreit@whitehallmt.org School Phone: (406)287-3862. Web site: mtwow.org Mailing Address: Whitehall Schools, P.O. Box 1109, Whitehall, MT 59759.
2. Elmore, C. L. "Pests in landscapes and gardens." UC IPM Online. Apr. 2003. University of California. 8 Feb. 2005 <http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7462.html>.
3. Peet, Dr. Mary. "Specific Weed Management Practices." Sustainable Practices for Vegetable Production in the South. 8 Feb. 2005 <http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/sustainable/peet/IPM/weeds/spec_pra.html>.
4. Sullivan, Preston. "Field Bindweed Control Alternatives." National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service. Aug. 2004. NCat. 8 Feb. 2005 <http://www.attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/bindweed.html#cultural>.
By: Natasha Clements 2-9-2005. - Updated by: Jessyca Reinschmidt 2/26/09.
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